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| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| llmcguire |
Posted - 06/02/2012 : 10:52:50 AM
I'm knitting my first cardigan, bottom-up, requiring seams. I finished the back last night and started on the left front. The pattern calls for 3 inches of 1X1 ribbing before establishing the different cable patterns on all the pieces- back, the two fronts and the arms. I noted that it took me 14 rows to reach 3 inches on the back, but on the left front I only needed 12 rows. My question is, should I knit the same amount of rows (14) on all the different pieces or should I knit to the 3 inch regardless of how many rows it takes me to get there?
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| 6 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| eldergirl |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 6:48:49 PM
In case it is any help, relaxing your gauge as you progress is something I've had to struggle with, also. Once I knit a baby pullover where the right side was tighter than the left, as I started and ended rows. Everyone gave you good advice! I just wanted you to know you are not alone!
Best wishes,
Anna
Life is beautiful. |
| llmcguire |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 7:01:39 PM
Thank you, ikkivan, Shalee, Grand-moogie and NutmegOwl for your guidance and help; I am very grateful! This is what I did. I used US 10.5 needles for the cast-on: twisted german (I think that's the name, long tail with an extra loop-d-loop thing). Because of the ribbing, I was hoping this would be a firm enough yet flexible cast-on. Then, because I'm excited about this project I just kept knitting with the 10.5. (I may regret not increasing to a US 11). Unless the pattern says otherwise, the right side/public side has the tail hanging the right side. (Not sure if this is correct, but it's been working for me, I think). If different I write it down on the pattern. I also keep markers attached to the right side as reminders. I also used the very same needles, just removed the tips from the cable/back and attached to a new cable for the left front. I'm thinking I may have been more "nervous" about this project then I thought and my normal tightness got even tighter. I'm using Cascade Eco, and am still working with the same skein that I started with. I've not noticed any differences within the skein to justify a 2 row difference, but then I'm not measuring. It's probably me, all me. In fact I'm sure of it. I just wasn't sure what to do with the difference. So, it's the number of rows that is more important, then comes the magic of the wet block. Again, thank you!
NutmegOwl, thank you for the heads-up on the extra row difference for the two sides of the front. This would have driven me crazy! I would be "beyond expert level" at counting rows and still not figuring out why the row numbers are off by one. The pattern is Aidez. Not sure if the pattern takes this into consideration. It states to work as left side, just backwards, or is it reversed? Too much thinking for my brain at this point.
Off to continue the left front. Thank you all again, very, very much! |
| NutmegOwl |
Posted - 06/04/2012 : 09:10:38 AM
I'm betting that you knit the back before the fronts, so your gauge may have changed slightly along the way. But as the wise other posters suggested, it's the # of rows that matters.
Except that there is one variation - because it is a cardigan, in order to have the same side of the cast-on showing on the RS, at some point, one of your front sides will be off by 1 row from the other. This is perfectly normal and no one will ever know. This is because your seam edge is in different places on the knitted piece when you are knitting a seamed piece.
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Nutmeg Owl
Quaecumque sunt vera
http://www.owlwaysknitting.wordpress.com |
| Grand-moogi |
Posted - 06/03/2012 : 12:37:36 AM
Hi, I had the same thought as Shalee. Have you accidentally done the rib with the larger needles?
I knit a hug into every stitch |
| Shalee |
Posted - 06/02/2012 : 3:36:03 PM
The ribbing needs to be the same number of rows because of seaming. When you seam the back piece to the two fronts you want the ribbing to be the same # of rows. It should all work out in the blocking.
Also, when you work upwards, from the ribbing towards the arm holes you want the same number of rows, front and back, there also. Again, because you need to match row for row when you seam.
I can't remember ever seeing a cardigan pattern where the fronts didn't mirror the back, along the sides.
I would guess that when you started the back your tension was tighter than when you started the front. Or you could have started the front with the larger size needles, by mistake, since normally the ribbing is done with a needle a couple of sizes smaller than the body of a sweater.
Sharon in NW PA
I always wanted my own library but I didn't realize it would be all knitting books!
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| ikkivan |
Posted - 06/02/2012 : 11:13:33 AM
Hmm, did you use the same cast-on method each time? Did you note which side is the right side and/or wrong side? For me personally, when I've done sweaters (or other seamed garments) like this, I always match the number of rows rather than the inches, PROVIDED that the same side of the CO shows for the public side, which it always has for the patterns I've used. Also, if you are using a good wool yarn, minor differences should even up in the blocking.
Donna, with intentions always bigger than her available time. (OkieDokieKnitter on Ravelry) |
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