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 Cap Sleeve Top length question
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JenG
Chatty Knitter

Canada
262 Posts

Posted - 05/05/2013 :  07:16:19 AM  Show Profile Send JenG a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi,

I'm dying to start this pattern from Handmaiden Yarns http://handmaiden.ca/kit_capsleevetop.html, but am a little stumped on what size to make. I'd be knitting the smallest size (34") based on my bust size, but the length is the issue. I prefer the length of my sweaters to be a bit longer as I hate constantly pulling them down. Based on measurements I've taken, they're usually anywhere from 17-18" long from the armpit.

According to the pattern, which is knit in the round from the bottom up, for the small size, you knit 13" before dividing for the arms, and for the large size, you knit 15". Here's my question: The finished length for the large is 21" (the small is 19"), so I'm assuming this includes from the top of the neckline to the bottom, correct? The sweater will look small when knit, and once it's blocked, increases 20% in length and 15% in width. Does this mean, if I knit 15" for the length (before blocking), after blocking it should be 18" long? If that's right, then the sleeves to the neckline is only another 3", right? Based on what I prefer the length of my sweaters to be, should I go with 16"-17" when knitting, or just stick with the 15"? As you can see, I'm very confused by this.

Janettoo
Warming Up

65 Posts

Posted - 05/05/2013 :  6:28:44 PM  Show Profile Send Janettoo a Private Message  Reply with Quote
You will need to knit a swatch, get your gauge, and then wash it however you plan to wash the garment, block it and let it dry, and measure your gauge again. Then, you will see if the dimensions increase FOR YOU and by exactly how much. Decide how long YOU want the sweater to be. Your post washed and blocked gauge will tell you how many rows to knit to get that length. Then, calculate how long that many rows is according to the pre-wash gauge. You knit that length, or you can count rows to see when you are ready for the arms.

Yes, it is more work to make a swatch. But consider how much work it would be to get it all finished and have it not fit. Also, consider how unpleasant it would be to be wondering if it will be right the whole time you are knitting it. I consider swatching a chance to play with the yarn and pattern. I've been saved from many a disaster by swatching. Stitch patterns that are a hassle, yarn that doesn't want to cooperate, changes in size, fabric that is bleh, and so on.

Besides, you like to knit. Swatching is just the opportunity to do more!

Janet in TN
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dschmidt
Permanent Resident

4014 Posts

Posted - 05/08/2013 :  1:18:33 PM  Show Profile Send dschmidt a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The finished length for the small (19") is the length from the bottom to shoulders. The side seam would still be 13". I doubt if blocking would increase the side seam length by 3". The length from the bottom of the armhole to the top would be around 6" according to what you posted here. If you measure one of the sweaters you already have and like, I think you'll find a similar measurement. Janet is right that you should swatch then wash and block your swatch to get accurate gauge.

Donna in VA

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JenG
Chatty Knitter

Canada
262 Posts

Posted - 05/08/2013 :  6:33:43 PM  Show Profile Send JenG a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thank you, Janettoo and dschmidt! I've started my swatch, and so far, it appears that the gauge on the pattern is the pre-blocked gauge, which surprises me. But, I guess that just means they want everyone to be knitting the appropriate pre-block gauge and then they can adjust the size when they block it. I'll keep going till I have a good-size swatch, then block it and see what happens.
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dschmidt
Permanent Resident

4014 Posts

Posted - 05/09/2013 :  05:35:36 AM  Show Profile Send dschmidt a Private Message  Reply with Quote
What makes you think it's the pre-blocked gauge? I've never heard of that.

Donna in VA

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Ceil
Permanent Resident

USA
1858 Posts

Posted - 05/09/2013 :  9:41:59 PM  Show Profile  Visit Ceil's Homepage Send Ceil a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dschmidt

What makes you think it's the pre-blocked gauge? I've never heard of that.


I broached this subject with a thread I started here on gauge. I don't have time to look it up, but I'm sure you'll find it.

Ceil
(Ravelry: ceilr)
Time is never a factor when joy is involved.
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dschmidt
Permanent Resident

4014 Posts

Posted - 05/10/2013 :  07:22:26 AM  Show Profile Send dschmidt a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Ceil, I'll look for it.

Donna in VA

The Honor Roll? It's easier here than in school. Scroll up to "Want to Make Betty Happy?" and be an Honor Roll member.
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JenG
Chatty Knitter

Canada
262 Posts

Posted - 05/10/2013 :  10:27:10 AM  Show Profile Send JenG a Private Message  Reply with Quote
It really is a very awkward pattern to understand, dschmidt, so I'm not surprised you're wondering about the gauge. I actually calculated the gauge that was given with the finished measurements, and it doesn't work. When I add the 15% increase in width after blocking, though, then it works.

I decided to double-check with the company, just to be on the safe side, and they've just replied: the gauge listed is pre-blocking. This is the first time I've seen it too, so I'm glad I checked!
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dschmidt
Permanent Resident

4014 Posts

Posted - 05/11/2013 :  1:35:39 PM  Show Profile Send dschmidt a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Good to know, JenG.

Donna in VA

The Honor Roll? It's easier here than in school. Scroll up to "Want to Make Betty Happy?" and be an Honor Roll member.
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